Solo Road Trip: Day 1: Chicago and South Bend

I left the Twin Cities bright and early so I could make it to Chicago for lunch. I had a plan. Au Cheval. Burger. Bliss. I zoomed through Wisconsin and rolled up on the place at about 1:30pm.

Something I forgot: Monday January 18th is a holiday. Yay for holiday, boo to tons of Chicagoans having the day off. The wait at Au Cheval was 3 hours. At 1:30 on a Monday. ARGH. They close the kitchen for dinner change over at 3pm, so I was SOL. DOUBLE ARGH.

Luckily, Au Cheval is located on West Randolph, amongst many other fantastic restaurants. I decided to walk down the block and hit a place I have been recommending for years, but had never actually gone.

Little Goat is the sister restaurant to Girl and the Goat, both by Stephanie Izard. I had been to the Girl and the Goat a few years ago for my birthday and had a fantastic experience. I figured the same would apply to Little Goat. I rolled up to a packed house, but there were a couple of seats at the dining counter so I snagged one.

I was greeted warmly by my server, who gave me free coffee as I was sitting really close to the back door (it was 13 degrees in Chicago that day, and that door opened often). She let me know that everything is a la cart, and since I was there kinda late in the game they were out of cinnamon rolls.

I dove into the menu: man oh man. It is a beast. Little Goat is very much upscale diner fare (not unlike my current Minneapolis obsession: Nighthawks). There is all day breakfast, sammiches (yes sammiches), burgers, salads, soups, bakery, and full on entrees. I was so in the mood for a burger, but since I had that Au Cheval burger on my mind, I knew I couldn't do a burger here. It just wouldn't be what I had been thinking about. So I perused the menu, and decided on the tonkatsu sammich and a side of brussels sprouts.

WHOA. Maybe this is the thing with the elevated diner, but the portions are INSANE. The tonkatsu sammich is a giant pork chop, breaded and fried, then drenched in asian bbq, japanese mayo, and a cabbage slaw on thick white bread. It was delicious, but enormous. I could have easily shared this with someone else, I only ate half of it!

The brussels sprouts are done with sliced almonds, a spicy fish sauce (I am pressuming nuoc cham) and crispy onions. Perfectly done, and again SO MUCH FOOD. I will say the half sammich with the sprouts would be a lovely leftovers breakfast with an egg on it.

Now, when I walked into the restaurant the hostess was talking to one of the servers and letting her know what the cake special was for the day. Cheez-it Cake. I AM SORRY, WHAT? Cheez-it CAKE? Okay, there is no way on this earth I am not going to get that. I was super stuffed after that meal, so I got the cake to go so I could share it with Professor Ruiz when I got to his place in South Bend. 

Cheez-it cake. An interesting concept, kind of a strange execution. It was basically white cake with chocolate covered Cheez-Its in the middle and on top. The cake was decent, the frosting was fine, but it wasn't much to write home about. Especially for $8 (!!!). 

In Summation: Little Goat is a great diner. I would maybe skip dessert and go to Bang Bang for Pie. 

I got to South Bend, J and I went to a talk by Patrisse Cullors and Opal Tometi of the #BlackLivesMatter movement and then went to Blaze for pizza. I took no photos of Blaze, cuz, well, Blaze. It was totally fine. The only one I know of in the Twin Cities in on the U of MN campus REALLY close to Punch, which seems real silly to me. 

Next stop: Nashville! 

Now Listening: 

Neko Case: Middle Cyclone

David Bowie: The Man Who Sold the World

Comedy Bang Bang Podcast

Feelin' Stronger Every Day

Again, I apologize for the few and far between posts here. It's been one crazy summer ('sup John Cusack). However, I got on the road last week and put some delicious stuff in my face, whilst running around the city and suburbs of the greater Chicagoland area.

I had been hearing about the Chicago branch of Mario Batali's Eataly  since it opened last year, but I so rarely get to downtown Chicago without a mission that I hadn't made the trek. Lucky me, one of the stores I had to visit is a block away so lunch at Eataly for me! Hurrah!

This place is ENORMOUS. It has retail, classes, restaurants, markets, cafes and a wine shop. I went to the La Birreria, which is basically the bar with lots of local beers and a good selection of wine and small plates. Since it was lunch I thought it the way to go.

First off: WOW. Worst service I have ever had in Chicago. I was floored, as I am used to amazing service in this city. I was the only person sitting at the bar and there was maybe 1 other table, and I was ignored for a good 5 minutes. Dubious, to say the least. I almost gave up but was finally greeted by a bartender. I ordered a glass of Prosecco, the Rucola salad and the Prosciutto Crudo pizzette. I wanted to get it all in fast in case no one talked to me again (which BTW they didn't).

The salad came first: lovely. A pile of fresh wild arugula, grana padano and a balsamic vinaigrette. After a full day of running around the southern suburbs of Chicago this was exactly what I needed (well that and the Prosecco. Yeah, I am a lady who lunches: what of it?). Crisp, rich depth of flavor with the cheese and perfectly peppery arugula.

The pizzette came out quickly afterwards: ADORABLE. Fried dough with raw prosciutto di parma, stracciatella and cherry tomatoes. I cannot think of a better size pizza for one, it was the perfect amount of food. The stracciatella is made in house daily, and man oh man was it divine. They do have a tasting plate of all the cheeses, I am going to have to do that at some point. All of the cheeses! For me!

In summation: The food at Eataly is fantastic. They really need to get someone in there to fix the Front of House, though. That is extremely off putting.


I did a bunch more running around for work and then ended up at Parson's Chicken and Fish in the Logan Square neighborhood (this is where I lived when I was in Chicago for 2 minutes back in 2011). I have been hearing about this place for a while, kind of the hipster fried chicken joint. So, I obviously had to try it.

I decided I wanted to get take out, it had been a long day and I was feeling like a night of Law & Order and take out was on the menu. I got to Parson's and sat at the bar. The bartender and I bonded immediately, as we both have pie tattoos (yay pie!) and I ordered up my take out. While I sat there though, I thought I should probably have a snack and a cocktail as I waited. I ordered up a half dozen oysters and a frozen negroni.

FROZEN NEGRONI. This is genius. At Parson's they have a couple of those frozen drink machines that you see in Vegas. I have never had one that has been this delicious. Bitter and full of boozy goodness, not overly sweet like most of those drinks tend to be. The oysters were blue points and perfect. My take out order got to me swiftly, so back to the suburbs I went!

I ordered the Parson's Hot Chicken: which is 2 pieces of fried chicken with the hot hot goodness, white bread and fresh pickles. I also got a side of hush puppies and a slice of pie that the restaurant gets from Bang Bang. I love me some spicy chicken, so I was really excited to get down with this. It was not too hot, not too sweet, and the chicken was still juicy and perfectly cooked. It had a great kick, don't get me wrong, it just wasn't burn your face off hot. The hush puppies were good: but I think would have been way better if not to-go. They lost some of their crispy goodness in the trek to the hotel. The pie, not surprisingly, was divine. Key lime happiness. I sure like me some Bang Bang.

In summation: I can't wait to go back to Parson's and eat there. The service was great, and everyone working and eating seemed really happy to be there.


The next day I had lots of work to do but had to make time to see my girl Bridgid. There is a newish ramen place we both had been dying to try: so off to Wicker Park we went!

Furious Spoon  just opened this year right on Milwaukee Ave in the heart of Wicker Park. It is a small place with some giant communal tables and a perfectly honed menu. It's ramen, plain and simple. There isn't 1 million items on the menu, just cold ramen, hot ramen, as few sides. Boom. Ramen. This makes me really happy. There is no hemming and hawing: just pick your ramen and slurp it up. Fantastic.

I ordered the Furious Ramen (how could I not) which consists of spicy miso, pork belly, white pepper chicken, a poached egg, marinated mushrooms, garlic relish and fury sauce. What is fury sauce you may ask? It is a house made apple chili sauce, and it has some kick! I didn't even need the Shichimi (which I love). This ramen had such complexity and depth, it was so healing. I have had a rough summer and this is exactly the thing I needed to sooth my soul. Bridgid had the Vegetable Ramen as she is a vegetarian. I tried it, and it was delicious. Big chunks of roasted garlic make this ramen special.

In summation: Yes and yes. Can't wait to go back. I see that they are opening a second location in Logan Square with a rooftop patio: so I will for sure have to check that out!


We then walked over to Stan's Donuts, as I cannot pass up an adorable sign or pastries. Stan's is actually a place originally from LA: starting in 1963. It has recently made its way to Chicago, right in the midst of the crazy intersection of Damen, North and Milwaukee. They have a crazy array of donuts and delicious Intellegentsia coffee. I got a cinnamon sugar pretzel twist and a meyer lemon bismark for the road.

Both were delicious! Not the best donuts I have ever had but certainly not the worst. The cinnamon pretzel had a really cool texture, almost like a paratha. The meyer lemon curd was divine. 

In summation: if I am in the area and hankering for a sweet I would totally stop in! I do want to try one of the peanut butter pockets. Next times, Stan's!

More to come from door county! 

Hanging with Professor J.Ru: A week in South Bend

I know I have mentioned this before, but here I go again: I have surrounded myself with academics. I don't exactly know how this happened, I have a fair amount of people in my life who are not within the academic elite. However, those closest to me seem to have higher degrees. Enter, Professor J.Ru.

(This is me and J with our friend Nichole: also an academic: from the MN state fair 2 years ago)

J and I went to undergrad together, and we have been friends ever since. We have both lived in various cities, countries, been through relationships and jobs and ups and downs. Through it all, we are still dear friends. He is a professor (just got tenure! go J!) at a large university in South Bend, Indiana, so when I found I was to be in Chicago for a long stretch I decided to spend the work week with my dear J. 

I started my journey at Vegan Vortex in Chicago: a seasonal vegan marketplace run by my ladyfriends Natalie and Ana. They put on a fantastic event with vegan vendors of food, bakery, clothes, houseweres, and much more! If you are in Chicago while one of the Vegan Vortex markets are going, definitely check it out. I got amazing pies from Pie, Pie My Darling and fantastic candles from Last Craft Designs. I bought 4 mini pies so J and I could sample. (side note: THESE PIES WERE FANTASTIC. Our faves were the lemon creme and the pb&j)

I made to to South Bend about 3pm, and J greeted me at the door with "GET ME OUT OF THE HOUSE." Welp, okay! Let's go! He had an excellent plan for a wee trip to Three Oaks, MI. About 40 minutes out of South Bend and an hour and a half out of Chicago, J tells me it's like the Hamptons for Chicago. It is a small, quaint town that is full of really amazing curiated antique shops and art galleries. And even better? A whisky distillery. 

J truly does know the way to my heart. Good food and killer cocktails are just what this girl needed. We had a plan of watching all of House of Cards season 3 in the 4 days we were to be together, however first we get fancy (before the caftans and curlers come out). 

Journeyman Distillery is a newer distillery, opened in 2011. They do small batch whiskey and other spirits and certified organic. Journeyman does distillery tours, sell their product on site and also have a tasting room with food. We got ourselves a table and checked out what they had to offer.

We decided to start with a sidecar (me) and a lavender gimlet (J). We both are really in to gin lately, especially in the summer. Both cocktails were perfectly balanced, boozy but smooth. For food we ordered up the soft pretzels with pub cheese. Why did we not order like 4 orders of this? I am always on the hunt for the perfect pretzel with cheese: and this was it. I am thinking about it months later.

In summation: Journeyman is fantastic. There are so many beer taprooms all over, it was great to go to a place where I can find drinks I like and food that is tasty. I also bought some of their whisky and gin for later drinking. 

So the rest of my time in South Bend was basically watching House of Cards in a housecoat, making food at home and drinking gin (yes we are all class).  So I am going to have to go back to South Bend to get some deets on restaurants there. More to come! 

Hard Habit to Break: The last hurrah in Chicago (this season)

So, I know I said that I was going to go to new places on this epic Chicago excursion, but sometimes you just need your creature comforts. That is what happened to me last Friday after my event. I worked all day, not having a chance to eat something. So by the time 4 rolled around and I was back in the city, I was starving. I knew exactly what I wanted, and my car took me there.

Kuma's Corner is a heavy metal bar and burger joint in the Avondale neighborhood. I first heard about it from my friend Kermit, who has in the past shown me the way of deliciousness in Chicago. Kuma's opened in 2005, and has been a staple in epic Chicago burgers ever since. Things to know about Kuma's: it is LOUD. The burgers are named after metal bands. They have whisky on tap. You may have to wait up to 2 hours. They do have veggie burgers. It is worth it.

Luckily I was going early enough on a Friday where I knew I could get in and out fast. I had to meet my friend J for a show at 6, so time was of the essence. Especially when you factor in Chicago traffic, which is some of the worst. 45 minutes to get 3 miles? Not unheard of. I rolled in to Kuma's at about 4:30 and bellied up to the bar.

I know in my heart of hearts I should try something I haven't tried on the menu. However, I am such a creature of habit when it comes to this place. The first burger I ever had here is the one I get every time. I almost buckled this time and got the burger of the month, but the bartendress came up to me and I ordered my usual. Jameson soda with a lime and the High on Fire.                                                

The High on Fire consists of a hand made pretzel bun (all of the burgers are on pretzel buns) a giant burger with sweet chili sauce, grilled pineapple, roasted red pepper, sriracha and prosciutto. This burger is not to be trifled with, sweet, spicy, perfectly medium rare. They have recently changed their fries, and thank Godzilla they did. They now have hand cut fries that are a perfect accompaniment to their burgers. I will say that they also have a fantastic side salad, the basil vinaigrette they make is to die for.

In summation: I can't say anything bad about Kuma's on Belmont. I will say Kuma's Two in Lincoln Park is way to clean and sterile for my tastes. I want my metal burgers METAL.                                

Post Script: #JBFA
So, I had totally forgotten that the James Beard Foundation Awards were taking place in Chicago this year. My girl Michelle is up for best chef (go girl go!) and she was flying down to Chicago on the last day I was to be in town. Uh-Oh. After work I met up with her and her girls Brennan and Shannon at GT Fish and Oyster. Everything kind of became a blur: but here are some photos from GT, Yusho, and the Soho House. My liver still hurts, but man was that fun. Kinda wish I would have stayed the extra couple of days to hang with these ladies. But I'll be back in Chicago soon enough.